Huwon by Kiwa

 Savoring traditional Korean cuisine

By Earl D.C. Bracamonte

Huwon by Kiwa, the upscale traditional Korean restaurant at the Royce Hotel in Clark, Pampanga, formally opened its doors to commerce through an intimate ribbon-cutting ceremony with its owners and Pampanga Vice-Governor Lilia Pineda, as guest of honor.

"Huwon means an 'imperial court' in Korean. What I discovered about Korean restos in and around Manila was that these dining places were hybrids. Everything was a fusion that even their sauces have imbibed a Filipino taste.

"That's one of the reasons why I opened these Korean restaurants so we could offer authentic dishes. And to maintain the integrity of Korean cuisine, most of our ingredients have to be sourced from Korea; like our chili paste. For instance, you'll taste the ginseng roots in the soup because the ingredient is there," elucidated proprietor Dr. David Shim, who also owns the Kiwa resto in Solaire.

Since the luncheon was kinda long and formal, the trick was to enjoy the dishes slowly and not hurry in ingesting them, so you won't get overwhelmed and easily full. Plus, to do away with flatulence, it is advised you eat the cold radish first with the hot Bori-cha (barley tea) to prepare your stomach.

Filipino diners, who are averse to spicy food, can control the zing by determining the level of heat they're comfortable with in their sauces. Or they could simply go for the non-spicy dishes that abound in the extensive menu.

For starters, there's the Korean porridge (congee) with its delectable lingering burnt sesame aftertaste. Or, perhaps opt for the Jap Chae with its pan-fried veggies and glass noodles with basil. You may also sample their fabulous fresh salmon sashimi or the Saeu twigim (shrimp tempura) and any of its chicken dishes like the Dak Gang Jeong (deep fried chicken) or the Dak barbecue for a little kick in your palate.

Other safe choices include the delicious Gyeran jim (steamed egg) and Modum-jeon, which is a plate of assorted pancakes, skewers, fish, pork, and beef. And enjoy both with Eukkaen gamia, savory balls of not-so-mashed potatoes.

Salad lovers should not miss the Geotjeori, the traditionally fermented kimchi; or the Chadol bagi, which is pan-fried bits of beef brisket on a bed of salad greens. 

And to really whey your spicy adventure, awaken your senses with Kimchi jjigae, a spicy stew with pork. Or, simply join the bandwagon with the Chadol doenjang jjigae, which is a soybean paste stew with beef brisket. The Yang nyeom galbi, that's beef short rib soup with marinated special sauce is a must-try!

Elevate your seafood cravings with Ojingo muchim, a seasonal dish of spicy squid. This goes well with Miyeokjulgi bokkuem, a dish of salted seaweed stems, and the Odeng bokkuem, which is stir-fried morsels of fish cake.

And for sweet endings, get the summer cooler Pat bingsu, which is shaved ice with red beans and cornflakes.

Interestingly, the food we sampled was prepared by a Filipina chef who mastered the art of preparing Korean dishes, Chef Susan Tarnate. The soft-spoken head toque served the dishes with effortless precision, with the help of the cordial F & B team.

"I've been with the entertainment industry producing TV dramas for 30 years. One of the challenges of dining in an authentic Koean resto is catching and leaving with barbecue smell on you or your clothing. But we've found a way to minimize that. This restaurant making journey is also like making a telenovela," quipped Dr. Shim, who flew in from California just for the resto opening rites.

The Huwon by Kiwa traditional Korean restaurant is conveniently located at the ground level of the Royce Hotel inside the sprawling Clark Freeport Zone in Pampanga.